Plitvice Lakes: The Wonder of Croatia

Croatia had been a dream destination for my wife. In fact she even classified it as a ‘bucket list’ item, such was the urge to visit that country. So, needless to say that there was a high level of excitement and anxiety when we set-off for our vacation to the republic.
Things did not start off in the best possible manner. After a cross country ride from Basingstoke to Luton airport, we learnt that our flight was delayed by three hours. The three hour delay was not much of an issue just that it meant that we would miss out on the Friday evening at Split.  After killing a bit of time over lunch at ‘Frankie and Benny’ at Luton airport, we finally boarded at around 5:30 PM. The two-hour flight took us to Split, Croatia where we arrived at around local time 8 PM.  We booked the airport shuttle bus which took us to the city center in around thirty minutes.  While booking accommodation, we had noticed that Split did not offer much of hotel accommodation but more of an apartment at our budget.  We were booked at one such apartment at the city center. Directions were provided and with some difficulty we found the place. The owner seemed to be waiting for us and a few other travelers with delayed flights, after which he would be too happy to call it a day handing over the keys to us. By the time we checked in and were ready to hit the city, it was around 10 PM. That did not deter us as we walked our way through the cobbled roads into the city center.  The city center essentially is a walled square with the Diaclotians palace being the most prominent landmark.  I had seen many a cobbled road in European cities but this was one level higher as far as providing a retro feel is concerned. Cobbled roads were complemented by stone walls and narrow lanes as we were actually inside the enclosed area of a castle. The whole sight was fascinating and even more fascinating was the fact that it was still buzzing with people, typical of a Friday night. There was a slight drizzle so we did not exert ourselves much. We walked around the place once, checked out a lot of people partying, settled for an ice-cream and then retired for the night as we had a long day ahead.

Plitvice Lakes National Park

Our first destination would be a UNESCO World Heritage Site – Plitvice Lakes National Park. The national park is famous for its cascading lakes joined by a number of waterfalls. The place is a natural beauty, having these lakes surrounded by mountains and it is one of most sought after destinations in Croatia. The place was a four hour bus ride from Split. The route was quite scenic through the mountain ranges which I managed to notice in between my winks.  We reached the national park at around 1 PM. We were booked at the Hotel Bellevue within the premises of the park, just a short walk from Gate number 2 where the bus dropped us.  As the hotel reception told us that we will be able to check in only at 2 PM, we couldn’t resist taking a walk down to the nearest lake and in the process buy the tickets for the weekend. The tickets included the bus rides and ferry rides to multiple attraction points within the park. The place consisted of a lower and an upper level, both having a number of lakes and waterfalls. We started on the trail towards the lower lakes. A short bus ride took us to the start of the trail, which was close to Gate number 1. We picked up a frozen ham sandwich at the cafe  to provide some boost for the trek ahead as we were famished since morning. Finally we were all set for a visual treat provided by mother nature. The weather gods listened to us too as the clouds cleared out to make way for some bright sunshine.

The first view of the lower lakes. The lower lakes form a canyon with cliffs on both sides. The lake flows more like a river.  The clouds are still there. One can see the junction of the upper and the lower lakes. Our plan now is to follow the trail and climb down to the lake side.

The sun is out and we get that amazingly breathtaking emerald green color. The cliffs on the sides add to the visual delight as we view the tourists moving like ants from the top. That is our first destination, to cross the ridge and move to the opposite side of the lake.

Following the trail and moving down, clicking all the way. The sun is now blazing away as a large number of us walk down. This is just a moment where there was a gap in human traffic. The secluded look is totally misleading.

We reach to the base and now can see the crystal clear water. The people who looked like ants from above are now looking proper humans. We need to cross the ridge and view a giant waterfall.

We reach the first major landmark of the lower lakes – the waterfall. Countless groups are taking photos but the one thing that is missing here are the emerald green waters. Our next destination is quite an iconic viewing point known as the Veliki Slap, which is the top of a 78 m waterfall . But this time its not a straight forward trail to reach there. We just see a couple of arrows which points to some narrow steps next to the waterfall. This was no touristy affair where we would just follow the crowd. It was probably the thrill needed. We took the steps and moved up. This was now in a forest area with caves around. As we moved up, all indications were there that we were going nowhere and it was hard to believe that any Veliki Slap was waiting for us. Soon we spotted a fellow traveler couple returning from somewhere. We inquired and they updated us there was indeed a good view point ahead and duly gave us directions. We now come to the edge of the park which led to the motorable road where we spotted a board saying ‘Veliki slap‘. Another returning couple confirmed the same and as we walked along, we crossed a road bridge, then entered into the forest again where we followed the trail.

Finally, we realized that Veliki Slap was no hoax and indeed such a place existed which provides a gorgeous apex view of the cascading upper and lower lakes. It was a relaxed place with not many people. Only one group of tourists were clicking photos with us and one guy in a red t-shirt was just on his own, completely oblivious of the time and the fact that the evening is soon going to set in. Incidentally I spotted him from the opposite side on our way up so looked like he truly loved the place.  It was time now to head back. One option was to go back exactly the same way and reach gate 1. But that would be an extremely boring option. We shot it down. We reach a board which pointed towards the ferry port no 3 which was a twenty minute walk. We took this route. There was not a soul around and this was some adventure of moving into the unknown. We followed the trail with the lakes on our left and the road on the right. We were touching it times and then very soon moving back to the trails through the forest. And then we got our magic moment.

Another gorgeous view of the two lakes from a truly secluded point to ourselves. It was probably the place to just sit and relax.We would have probably done so had it not been close to 7 PM in the evening and us having to catch a ferry that would take us back to our hotel stop. Nevertheless, this was THE sight to behold for the day. There were waterfalls around which looked minuscule from the heights. The water was as blue as ever and our adventurous spirit hit its peak.  Next stop would be the ferry port and now the trail looked a lot more clearer. 

We board the ferry right on time that would take us to ferry station 2 which was close to our hotel. It was the last ferry and little did we realize that it would have been quite a hassle had we missed it. What we had experienced over the last couple of hours was way to fulfilling to even think of such an eventuality. As we returned, our eyes were still not done with.

We are treated to this beautiful view of the early signs of autumn as a couple seem to enjoying more than us on a hired boat.  We soon reach our station and realize that our legs cannot take it anymore. We somehow drag ourselves to the hotel. Our hunger levels have gone to extremes now so we settle for a meal (a cheese omelette for me) which ends up being our early dinner and retire for the day.

The Next Day

Our target for the day is to cover the trail on the upper lakes. This had to be done in the morning as we would be boarding our bus back to Split at 3-30 PM. We had breakfast included in our hotel package so needless to say we ate enough to last us another two hour trek through the gorgeous lakes. In order to cover the trail of the upper lake we had to take the shuttle bus upwards and then trek downhill back to the ferry port 2 where our hotel was located.  We feared rain and clouds as the forecast said so but thankfully it relented and we had a bright sunny day thus vindicating my stance that you should know the weather forecast only to ignore them.

We get off the bus and start off our trail. What better way to start that to see the crystal clear turquoise water under the bright sun and the blue skies. We thank the weather gods for smiling on us as it would be a disaster had it been otherwise.

From the lakes, the trail takes us to the woods. Everyone is in mood and we just need to follow the crowd and the trail.

All of a sudden a brook flows. It could possibly be connecting two lakes. Trees all around now, with enough of oxygen to breathe.

And after turning a corner we see the first of the many beautiful and gorgeous waterfalls. So pristine that you have the water being reflected in the water. The trail is facing a human jam as everyone wants to click this waterfall.

A tricky wooden bridge to cross but that’s what this trail is all about. Another photo session follows and we move on.

At every step we get a sight to behold. Waterfalls continue to show themselves through the woods. Each lake shows a different shade of blue varying with sky and the forestation around.

Slowly we approach the climax of the trail where we are welcomed by some  ‘block-buster’ views which stalls the entire train of tourists as each one clicks photos and selfies in multiple poses. Each sight proves to be better than the previous one as we move on looking at the watch now.

And finally we get to our climax. This is THE view which is prominently featured on any website or travel blog featuring Plitvice Lakes (The other one is featured at the start of this write-up). With this, we near the end of our trail. We take a ferry back to the port close to our hotel. Its almost 2 PM and time to wrap up and bid goodbye to Plitvice Lakes National Park. We grab a quick bite and manage to board the bus to Split at 3:30 PM. We reach Split via Zadar and finally the weather forecast sticks to its word, the heavens open up completely. So much so that we are forced into a shade at the town center as we walk from the bus station to our apartment. We finally located the representative of our host who was waiting for us with the keys at a landmark which was supposed be a fish market during the day. All was well once we got hold of her as she showed our 1 BHK apartment. The rain did not relent. Fortunately there was a restaurant with good music just at our doorstep and hence little damage was done as far as enjoyment goes. We had an awesome dinner and looked forward to the next day at Split.