(By Sandip Ghosh, who accompanied me on this trip)
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| Kanchenjangha – From Tiger Hill at 6 AM |
Most of my friends have been to Darjeeling many times. My record is a poor two, the last one being thirty two years ago.
This time the call to the snow-capped hills came from our young man and lady in Pune. “A full week in Calcuttais too long. So we have slotted four days for Darjeeling. Join us, so that we remain together for the entire holiday”.
The flight to Bagdogra was at 10-30 in the morning of 21st November. I always vaguely knew Bagdogra airport as a base camp to climb up to Darjeeling. So when a fellow passenger asked me where am I going I replied with an obvious tone only to realize a little later that the airport is a gateway to North Bengal and there is a sizable business traffic. No wonder there a number of flights from Calcutta all going full in an “off” peak season.
The transport at Bagdogra was booked in advance to avoid heckling associated with any tourist spot – a small benefit of experience. The spacious and powerful Innova was chosen and arranged by my wife Rumela for a comfortable ride. But that was not to be. One can understand getting stalled by the breakdown of a vehicle but here it’s a breakdown of the road. The bumpy ride, as we steer into the road leading to Darjeeling- christened Rohini – should be a delight to the manufacturers of shock absorbers. The driver assured “bright future” which did materialize, although I am not too sure whether it was for better road surface or for the nature which started unfolding its beauty and changed our mood as we climb the circuitous hill road.
We were carrying enough home made food for road – courtesy my initiative. Considered as a typical old fashioned idea, everybody contributed to polish off the containers.
As we crossed Kurseong and moved up towards Ghoom we were traveling along the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway track. Having seen and heard about the train right from childhood the whole system which was curved out some hundred and thirty years ago appear to be an integral part of the hill road but if you think a little deeply its an engineering marvel even if built today. No wonder UNESCO has designated it as World Heritage Site. The narrow track of two feet wide compared to five and a half feet broad gauge really looks like a Toy and it is difficult to conceive that a real engine attached with real bogies with comfortable sitting arrangement inside actually ply over it. We were lucky. We could see a train chugging along majestically spewing a lot of smoke which appeared to be a part of the engine as seen in pictures. The thought of pollution never came across.
As we crossed the Ghoom station the driver dutifully told that we are crossing the highest point – about 8000 feet – of our journey. Soon Darjeeling was visible. I was not expecting the same Darjeeling that I saw 32 years ago but the increase in habitation is mind boggling to say the least. Strictly speaking no one should grumble about this explosion, after all one day we all have contributed to present situation by joining the bandwagon. One can only wish that whole settlement was a little more organized. All of a sudden while negotiating a bend Kanchenjengha made its first appearance for 20 seconds – enough to lift our mood. Soon we cut across the milling crowd of Darjeeling Bajar to reach to the last point of vehicle movement. Some road repair was going on (patchwork of course) causing a pathetic traffic mess. My son was not exactly approving having to inhale tar fume at 7000 feet above sea level. I was, however, looking at the good old Keventers
The ramp to the Planters’Club – our resort for 3 days – is normally motorable but now totally broken. One has to walk up and that too with difficulty. The baggage of course were carried up by “running bearers” – some bliss of traveling inside our country.
The Club is well kept and the rooms are OK. After a bit of customization – courtesy the obliging staff – Karma – we settled down. It was almost four o clock with not much left of the day. However, there was no great hurry to go out since the range of Kanchenjengha with all its majesty was fully visible from the balcony. The orange glow of the setting sun was all over the place.
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| View from the Hotel |
The weather was colder than expected. We were not exactly “battle ready” to combat it. So, we had to summon the entire winter gear that we were carrying. Our young lady Asmi (my daughter-in-law) was happy. She will be able to fully justify the shopping of fashionable warm clothes – a plan, which was a well kept secret only shared with me.
It was well into the evening with lights dazzling from the shops when we walked up towards the Mall. The Glenary’s looks as interesting as it was 32 years ago – a mental note was made to have one meal there. Frank Ross and the Photo Stores are still in pristine condition.
As, we reached the flat of the mall, we were greeted by the reassuring presence of Chowrasta Stores fully stocked up for the winter. Oxford Book Stores is still maintaining its standard with wonderful collection and display of books. Some of the books on travels are not easy to find in major bookshops in metropolis. So absorbing was the place that it was after one hour that my son, Joy (as Avishek is affectionately called at home) realized that the place has no heating arrangement and we were not exactly comfortable inside. There are so many other shops all flying their flags for decades. The daunting façade of Windermere is somewhat obstructed by some construction work that is going on. The people who are sitting all around in the benches look so familiar as if I have seen them there 32 years ago. Standing at the centre of the mall one tends to think that we may do without “Poriborton” (change) in some places like this. The feel of cold suggested that the mercury must have gone down to 7 or 8. Time to go back to the comfort of the hotel.
The food at Opium the restaurant attached to the club was good and ambience cheerful. The place was not heated though making it a bit uncomfortable. I am sure a heating arrangement will be in place soon if they mean business. The rooms were comfortably heated with a glowing fireplace in old style supplemented by electric room heaters.
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| The Sunrise at Tiger Hill |
When you are on a winter holiday to hills its better to sleep early and get up early. The international lingo – “daylight saving” may be more convincing. But habits die hard. Knowing fully well that we have a tryst with Tiger Hill at 4 in the morning on November 22, we remained awake till 12-30. The two ladies decided to compromise by seeing the photos that we were going to capture rather than taking the trouble at the unearthly hours. Joy and I slept in one room.
Joy, not known for punctuality during holidays, was up and awake at 3-30. After all, the sun does not wait for anybody. We started off at 4 AM in an Indica. It was pitch dark and cold. The 45 minute journey was a climb from seven thousand feet to eight on a typical hill road. Rather, through an exceptional hill road. I have never experienced a bumpier ride. I am glad that nothing could be seen in the darkness but from the feel I may say, many would have abandoned the journey if things were visible. We were at the hilltop at 4-45 AM and the sunrise was not due till 6 AM. The reason for going early is for parking the car close to the top. There were too many cars on the narrow hill road and the late comers had to park their cars down below at the tail of the queue and walk up.
After the initial confusion we found the arrangement at the top is quite good. There is a two storied covered viewing gallery with glass windows all around. Plenty of open air built up space outside the gallery for more adventurous and keen photographers – all for small entry fee of thirty rupees and with tea on the house. Darjeeling tea I suppose, although in that near zero atmosphere any tea would have tasted like the top variety of Darjeeling – autumn flush or whatever.
From behind the hillocks deep down the valley up came the orange ball at about 6 AM drawing huge cheers from the waiting crowd. We rushed out of the comfort of the shade to the open balcony to get better opportunity to capture clear picture. Joy made a blind attempt by raising his camera well above his head. It worked. When we were appreciating the catch on the camera screen another natural beauty was unfolding on the other side. From nowhere in the darkness of the northwest sky rose our all too familiar Kanchenjungha – draped in orange light. All for a few minutes only. Then it became snow white all over again.
We were quite lucky to have seen the spectacle. Many mornings are marred by huge cloud. . By 6-20 we were free to go back and we did.
Joy crashed to bed immediately on return. I was in two minds and relaxed a while. The two ladies went off to Keventers across the road. They seem to be in a hurry. From the Club balcony one can almost see the fluffy omelettes being served in the open air joint – Irresistible, it was. I reached the place after about an hour later and Joy also came along. We all had lovely breakfast basking in the morning sun. The ladies were already unmindful. Shops in the Mall were calling them. Joy and I were under prepared for the day. So we went back to the hotel. After sometime it was found that all of us are wondering about the Mall aimlessly – the best way to spend a sunny winter morning in Darjeeling.
By 3 o clock we realized that we have not done any sightseeing to write back home. A car was hired and within half an hour we were at Happy Valley Tea Estate. The man charged high but we were happy because the roller coaster ride through the lanes and bylanes was free.
The first glimpse was a disappointment. As we walked by the open boundary the expanse of the garden was worth seeing. The company shop was selling much hyped Darjeeling tea fresh from the garden. When we were hesitating with price the person told us that our choice is to buy it there or go to Harrods. So the decision was made. One kg of premium tea may cost Rs.3500 to Rs.15000 a kg or more. Normally during any holiday you buy a local produce because it is somewhat cheaper. Not so for tea in Darjeeling. These varieties not even on display at Calcutta.
The groggyness arising out of getting up at the unearthly hour was still there inside Joy and me. So we decided to take a break. The ladies’ shopping spree continued uninterrupted.
Dinner was taken at the same place in the Club. Good once again but considered as a mistake having lost the chance of trying another place.
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| Tea Gardens |
Got up somewhat early on 23rd morning for doing Darjeelingonly to find that Darjeeling has vanished. Sorry, I meant Kanchanjangha has vanished in cloud cover. To a tourist it’s as good as or as bad as the Queen without the crown..
We started off in a car towards Darjeeling station to take ride in the Toy train from Darjeelingto Ghoom. Got into a huge traffic mess in the narrow road and milling crowd of the bajar. We came to know that the tourist special is full and gone and one in the afternoon is fully booked. The next destination was Zoo. Built in 1958 it’s a well laid out thoughtfully planned picturesque place worth visiting even if you are not too interested in watching the animals – some of them are of typically Himalayan variety.
Another landmark of the Zoo is Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. Established in 1954 one year after the first climb to Everest the Institute is housed inside the Zoo complex. Internationally recognized by all major mountaineering Institute around the globe this well kept place is a treasure house of information about Himalayas and mountaineering. A ‘must visit place’ when in Darjeeling.
Lunch at a coffee shop type outlet inside the zoo was good and reasonably priced.
Buying fresh spices and small giveaways on the ramp down the zoo took quite some time. When we reached the ropeway just beside St. Josephs North Point it was almost 3 o clock. We decided to skip the ride and proceeded towards Batasia loop.
For me there was surprise. A War Memorial with a beautiful manicured garden has been placed in the vacant land inside the almost circular train line – the loop. Those who have got off the train on one side of the loop to board it again on the other side will miss the fun but the present status is a huge improvement to say the least. Joy wanted a top view of the place, but that meant climbing to the 2ndor 3rd floor of a private house overlooking the garden.
The day was drawing to close and after spending some time in the Mall for one last time we were at Glenary’s first floor for dinner. The place was a huge mood lifter. Both food and ambience was great. Good way to close the short trip to this Queen of Hills.
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| The Famous Toy Train |
We were to leave by 10-00 for Bagdogra to catch a flight at 3-30 and at 9-30 Asmi was missing. Only information was that somebody in the hotel saw her climbing towards the Mall at the pace of a mountaineer. Just when I was becoming a bit uncomfortable came the reassuring call – “Bapi, do I buy some honey for you?” So, shopping was not over and that is the cause of her sudden disappearance. I wanted tell her that you have already poured honey into my ears.
By the time we actually hit the road for our 90 km journey albeit downhill it was 10-45 and the traffic jam at the bajar that we faced yesterday was still fresh in mind. Lucky – no hassle today, but it was not all smooth. After having crossed Kurseong we slowed down and eventually came to a halt with queue lengthening every moment. It must have been a breakdown down the hill somewhere. Our driver took a bold decision on his own, turned back to Kurseong to take Pankhabari road leaving Rohini. This seems to an older road through the woods, steeper and somewhat deserted. Good that this alternative route was there. In fact there is third one linking Darjeeling known as ‘Bhaayamirik” which when deciphered works out to ‘via Mirikh’ Anyway, whether the decision was right or wrong the bottom-line is that we reached Bagdogra well on time.
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| Batasia Loop |
This small airport is quite efficient and somewhat under rated. When we were there for checking in it was handling three flights –all full. No confusion, no hurry scurry, no running from pillar to post. X ray, checking in, restaurant and security check all aligned in an orderly manner. Even the toilet is manned by a courteous staff. We had some prior gen on the restaurant, courtesy a colleague of Rumela. So we ordered Chicken cutlet straight away. Service was smart and efficient. That the eating joint is good is evident from the way it is patronized.
The last bit of appreciation should go the security staff. The way they were keeping their cool in frisking our hand bag, finger bag, shoulder bag, camera, phone and offloaded woolens is commendable. Mind you the airport is located in a sensitive area with international borders all around.
With all that came the end of another good thing, and preparation for Joy and Asmi’s trip back to Pune at 6 AM next morning started on the way back from Calcutta airport.