The Heart Travels

Kolhapur Travel Guide: A Road Trip from Pune to the City of Palaces and Food

Kolhapur, located in southern Maharashtra, is known for its rich Maratha heritage, ancient temples, magnificent palaces and, of course, its famous Kolhapuri cuisine. About 250 km from Pune, it makes for an excellent road-trip destination for a long weekend.

We planned a three-day road trip from Pune to explore the city’s historical landmarks, experience its local food and soak in the cultural atmosphere. Our journey covered some of Kolhapur’s most popular attractions, including the New Palace, Rankala Lake, Mahalaxmi Temple and the historic Panhala Fort.

Day 1: Pune to Kolhapur – A Road Trip Begins

We started from Pune at around 8:00 AM, setting off on the approximately 250 km drive to Kolhapur. The journey was fairly straightforward, with a breakfast stop along the way to recharge before continuing south towards our destination.

On reaching Kolhapur, we checked into the Sayaji Hotel, which was our base for the next few days.

A Taste of Authentic Kolhapuri Cuisine at Hotel Opal

No visit to Kolhapur is complete without sampling its famous cuisine. Known for its bold flavours, spicy curries and traditional non-vegetarian preparations, Kolhapuri food has a reputation of its own.

We headed to Hotel Opal for an authentic Kolhapuri meal. We ordered a variety of dishes, including Mutton Fry, a classic traditional preparation, and Green Chicken, a local-style chicken dish that is relatively mild and non-spicy. We also tried Chicken Masala, prepared with the distinctive Kolhapuri spice base.

However, the highlights of the meal were undoubtedly the two signature Kolhapuri curries – Tambada Rassa and Pandhra Rassa. While Tambada Rassa is a fiery red curry, Pandhra Rassa is a milder white preparation made using bone broth. We found the Pandhra Rassa particularly amazing.

The curries were served with chapatis, making for a hearty and satisfying meal. It was a wonderful introduction to Kolhapur’s celebrated food culture and a highlight of our first day in the city.

New Palace (Shahu Palace)

Our next stop was the magnificent New Palace, also known as Shahu Palace. Built in the 19th century, this architectural landmark is closely associated with Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj, one of the most influential rulers of the Kolhapur princely state.

The palace is surrounded by expansive grounds, and we enjoyed exploring the premises. One of the interesting experiences was taking a chariot ride around the palace grounds, offering a leisurely way to appreciate the surroundings.

The palace is also home to a museum showcasing memorabilia and artefacts associated with the royal family. We planned to return during the day to explore the museum in greater detail.

Evening at Rankala Lake

As evening approached, we made our way to Rankala Lake, one of the most popular recreational spots in Kolhapur.

The lake is particularly attractive after sunset, when the surrounding area lights up. We spent some time enjoying the lively atmosphere and the illuminated waterfront. The musical fountain show added to the experience, making it a pleasant place to unwind after a day of sightseeing.

Day 2: Mahalaxmi Temple and Panhala Fort

Seeking Blessings at Mahalaxmi Temple

We began the second day early with a visit to the historic Mahalaxmi Temple, also known as the Amba Bai Temple.

Dedicated to Goddess Mahalaxmi, the temple is one of the most important religious landmarks in Maharashtra. With a history traditionally believed to go back nearly 1,900 years, it attracts devotees from across the country.

The temple is regarded as one of the three-and-a-half Shakti Peethas in Maharashtra and holds immense religious significance.

The early morning visit allowed us to experience the spiritual atmosphere of the temple and observe the rituals before the day became busy.

Exploring the Historic Panhala Fort

After our temple visit, we drove to Panhala Fort, located on a hilltop about 20 km from Kolhapur. One of the largest forts in the Deccan region, Panhala occupies an important place in Maratha history.

To make the most of our visit, we hired a local guide named Dhananjay, who helped us understand the fort’s fascinating past. We explored the extensive fort complex in a colourful open-air vehicle, which made it easier to cover its many historical structures and viewpoints.

Panhala Fort is closely associated with Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj and the Maratha struggle against the Adil Shahi forces. Among the stories that particularly stood out were those of Shiva Kashid and Baji Prabhu Deshpande.

Shiva Kashid is remembered for his extraordinary sacrifice when he disguised himself as Shivaji Maharaj to mislead the enemy and help the king escape from the fort. Baji Prabhu Deshpande, meanwhile, is celebrated for his heroic stand at Ghod Khind (later known as Pavan Khind), which enabled Shivaji Maharaj to reach the safety of Vishalgad.

Walking through the fort and listening to these stories from my friend Pushkar gave us a much deeper appreciation of the courage and sacrifices that shaped Maratha history. There is a distinct stamp of history across the fort, and it is difficult not to feel admiration for the people who fought here.

A Traditional Kolhapuri Meal at Panhala

After exploring the fort, we stopped for lunch at a hilltop restaurant serving traditional home-cooked-style (gharguti) food.

We enjoyed some of the region’s signature non-vegetarian preparations, including Kala Mutton and Chicken Kolhapuri. The meal was a fitting continuation of our culinary exploration of Kolhapur, and the hilltop setting made the experience even more enjoyable.

Day 3: Exploring Kolhapur’s Shopping and Royal Heritage

Exploring the New Palace Museum

We returned to the New Palace during the day to explore its museum, which we had not been able to visit properly on our first evening.

The museum houses an interesting collection of royal memorabilia, weapons, photographs, costumes and other artefacts associated with the Kolhapur royal family. It offers a fascinating glimpse into the lifestyle of the erstwhile rulers and the history of the princely state.

The visit added another dimension to our understanding of Kolhapur’s royal heritage and complemented our earlier exploration of the palace grounds.

Shopping for Authentic Kolhapuri Chappals

No trip to Kolhapur would be complete without buying its famous Kolhapuri Chappals. Known for their traditional craftsmanship, distinctive designs and leatherwork, these handcrafted sandals are among the city’s most recognizable products.

We visited one of the well-known shopping streets specializing in Kolhapuri footwear. It was enjoyable browsing through the different designs and exploring the variety of styles available. For anyone visiting the city, this is a great opportunity to take home a traditional piece of Kolhapur.

Kolhapuri Misal and the Drive Back to Pune

Before leaving Kolhapur, we made sure to enjoy one last local speciality – Kolhapuri Misal. Known for its spicy flavour and distinctive preparation, it was a fitting final meal before beginning our return journey.

We started the approximately 250 km drive back to Pune, which took around four and a half hours. We reached home by about 8:30 PM, bringing our four-day road trip to an end.

Final Thoughts: A Journey Through Maratha History

Our Kolhapur trip turned out to be much more than a sightseeing holiday. From the spiritual experience at Mahalaxmi Temple and the royal heritage of New Palace to the historic stories of Panhala Fort, the journey offered us a deeper understanding of the region’s history.

In particular, exploring Panhala Fort and learning about the sacrifices of Shiva Kashid and Baji Prabhu Deshpande helped us appreciate the struggles and legacy of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj and the Maratha Empire.

And, of course, no recollection of Kolhapur would be complete without its delicious cuisine and the famous Kolhapuri Chappals.

For anyone looking for a road trip from Pune that combines history, culture, spirituality and food, Kolhapur makes for a rewarding destination.

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