The Heart Travels

Moscow: UEFA Champions League Final 2008


If you give a choice of onsite destinations to any of our IT boys, none would probably have Moscow in their list. Even when I was about to embark on my much awaited onsite trip it was more of relief than celebrations and it hardly had anyone envious. However one thing that I had in my mind and which was one of the things to look forward to was the UEFA Champions League Finale that was to be held in Moscow.
Now, that was going to be big and surely to be a part of it would be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. But a simple search on Google about the ticket prices put all doubts to rest regarding any chance of attending the match. The prices mentioned would not even be matched by my entire per-diem allowance for the 87 days and add to that the safety concerns in Moscow, the violent soccer fans, lack of soccer fans in our group ; everything seemed to be stacked up against watching the match ‘live’. In such a situation, I would have said the probability of me being in the stadium on May 21st would be as much remote as an England football team winning the world cup. With such a background, as I strolled down the river side with the Luzhniki stadium on the opposite bank I would just dream on and take a number of snaps to show all that I at least saw the stadium where the big game is to be held.
Come May 21st, it turned out to be an all English final – Manchester United Vs Chelsea. What else could we have asked for (though I would have preferred Liverpool instead of the Chelsea)? As the countdown began the fans started pouring in and the excitement gathered momentum. We were boosted by a champions festival at Red Square where we saw a motivating video of the history of the champions league and also got a chance to pose with the actual trophy. Now this was already some achievement to have your snap next to the trophy before Terry or Ferdinand. Bolstered by this significant achievement and the presence of the amazing British fans we decided to take a feel of the atmosphere outside the stadium. Again the odds were stacked up against us – A long working Wednesday, crowded metro, late start to the match, drunken fans – can we make it? My colleagues Suman, Pradeep and I decided we will and we packed up our laptops at 7 PM and asked another of our colleague Dhanya to carry them home by cab (Going to a football stadium with laptops was certainly not the best idea). Even 3 hours 40 mins before the kick-off when we left office it was just to ‘check out’ the atmosphere, click snaps for uploading on social media and return home to watch the action from our hotel room.



We got the feel right outside our office at the Irish Pub where a group of red fans had already assembled and started their chorus. We took the red line from Park Koultary and proceeded to the Sportinaya station where the stadium is located. That was enough to put us all into the mood. The red line was literally red with the Manchester United fans (The blue fans poured in later) and everywhere it was a sign of jubilation and fun. As we climbed up the long escalator at the Sportinaya station the fans all broke into their chorus waiving their hands to one and all and looking all set for the occasion. As we came out of the station it was the outside of the stadium – our planned final destination. As usual the atmosphere was electrifying. We thought we’ll click as many snaps as possible and move back. As we moved further into the crowd, we realized there were tickets for sale – just like we see in a movie theater when its house full (in those good old pre-multiplex days). 600 Euros was one quote – no chance, 300 Euros next – still no chance and then came the glimmer of hope – an offer of 250 USD. We thought man this is an opportunity. Surely we can afford that. But where will the money come from? We had USD 300 with us and for 3 tickets we needed 300 more. Pradeep turned up at his inspiring best and suggested we ask the ladies back at office. There will still 5-10 mins to go before they head off to the hotel in the cab. And as if it was destiny both Dhanya and Ila had dollars to spare which summed up to 300. We headed back, picked up the dollars and in no time we had 3 champions league final tickets in our hands for USD 600 and in the Manchester United gallery. It took a while for that to sink in. Just a thought passed by – how do we go home at night especially in the highly unsafe stretch from the metro station to the hotel. To hell with it, we thought and headed forward. It was just unbelievable. As we climbed up the steps and had the first view of the ground I was spellbound. Were we really in there? It was still one hour for the kick-off so it was time to grab a hot dog as the fans poured in. With every passing minute it became more and more special. The ‘blue’ gallery slowly filled up right opposite our red gallery and a sea of blue started waiving their checked blue flags and thousand of flash bulbs started flashing every second all over the stadium. We had a small opening ceremony and at 2245 hours the game kicked off. Every seat in our gallery had a red of white plastic which if seen from a distance would spell out BELIEVE in white on a red background. As the teams came out of the tunnel we held up the banner which spelt BELIEVE and it flashed on the screens. The fans were in their chorus non-stop. First it was ‘Country Roads Take me home’ and then ‘Viva Ronaldo’, waiving their red and white scarfs all through. 

The game moved at a fast pace and in the 26th minute a Ronaldo header went past Cech and it was 1-0 to United. The fans just went bezerk, hugging each other and chanting ‘Viva Ronaldo’. A great move by Rooney followed by a beautiful cross to Ronaldo could have given another one but Cech made a stunning save (The whole trajectory of the ball could be followed, something which cannot be possible on TV). Chelsea started to raise their game and Lampard equalized against the run of play at the stroke of half time. The Luzhniki surface had been under discussion and was described by many experts as slippery. To add to that there was a constant drizzle all along. Little did we know then that a fateful ‘slip’ on the slippery surface will decide the fate of the game that night. Chelsea was clearly superior post half time and right up to the end of extra time giving Van der Sar and the red fans many a heart-in-the-mouth moments. The play was rough at times and in the dying moments of extra time, Drogba lost his cool and was sent-off thus denying Chelsea one of their main penalty takers. Shoot-outs have brought about many a tragic hero and tonight somebody had to be the one. Neither team deserved to lose and that made it all the more cruel.

Ronaldo missed first and the United fans were devastated. One miss can make all the difference between a triumph and disaster. The gallery which was screaming singing only a few minutes back was now reduced to a pin-drop silence. ‘Viva Ronaldo’ was replaced by a few 4 letter expletives from here and there. As John Terry moved up to take the championship winning kick, it looked all but over. The lady behind me was barely able to witness the final nail in the coffin going and closed her eyes. And then came the most costly slip. I never noticed the slip. I first saw Van Der saw going to the wrong direction and the next moment the ball hitting the bar. The fans could not believe it – a new lease of life to take the shootout to ‘sudden death’ (Ronaldo might have been the most relieved). Finally Van der sar guessed right for Anelka and it was all over. People around us got crazy but my eyes turned out to the big screen which showed John Terry in tears breaking down on Avam Grant’s shoulders. One more ‘shoot-out’ casualty added to the list. Now the dream was over for us and coming back to reality we had to decide how we go back? Should we stay at the stadium with the United fans (we were asked to be seated, the blue stands were vacated)? Or should we sit back at the station which was safe due to the presence of the cops? We waited till 3 AM by which time even the red fans started moving out. We followed them to the station and till Tetranalya (Red Square) we were with the crowd. Then as we took the green line it was totally deserted. Again Pradeep it was who just moved on without even thinking about the safety factor. There was not a soul in Orekhovo station other than the lady at the entrance and a sweeper. Somehow the walk went off fine and we were home, safe and sound. The feeling though was yet to sink in. This was something against all odds. So much was heard about British soccer fans, how violent they are, how their hooliganism has become a nightmare for the UK police and how dangerous it is to go to the stadium with those drunken fans. All such notions were put to rest. The fans showed great spirit, lots of energy and were extremely well behaved thoroughly enjoying the match and the visit to Moscow. Of course the Russian police and the security played a big part along with the fact that alcohol was banned up to a sizable distance from the stadium.

7 Comments

  1. avatar
    Anonymous says:

    Very good reporting of the event. It is passionately personal and at the same time thorough like a professional.Right emphasis has been given to the atmosphere in and around the stadium instead of reporting how the ball moved from red to blue and blue to red. We all watched that ‘live’ in the TV coverage, yet you have not missed out the full trajectory of the ball which a TV viewer like me could not see (did it appear like a rainbow to your eyes ?), and nor the tragic replay of Terry on Grant’s shoulder on the giant screen. But for the ‘slip’ Ronaldo would have been the tragedy king. And how will you describe the slip – “The most costliest slip of all” or “a slip between the cup and the kiss” ? After all Terry would have been the first person to kiss the cup but for the slip.

    Good job. Keep on writing blog straight from the heart.

  2. avatar

    Good post. I am sure you will get more opportunities to see European Club football. BTW how much was the ticket originally priced that you crib that its more than your INFY salary

  3. avatar

    what can i say…this has to go down as one of the best things that could have happened in your life…..
    i feel like some villager whose co-villager went to shehar and saw a car and came back and told his fellow villagers what a car looks like !!!!!
    when i got ur msg that night that you got the tickets….i screamed out …back to the match..i think Munich 1968 was backing Man U..when god hits u bad like he did in 1968..he will back you up sometime..like this nite !!!

    i can only imagine how rooney n ronaldo ran n swiveled for the czec save

  4. avatar

    I can’t explain how happy I am that one of ‘US’ got to watch the game …… ghosts of 1958 surely were circling the goal that day.
    Probably Duncan Edwards pushed Terry or something 🙂 …….. you’re one lucky guy 🙂 I hope luck favours me someday 🙂

    United Road, Take me home
    To the place, I belong;
    To Old Trafford, to see United;
    United Road, Take me home.

  5. avatar
    Anonymous says:

    Wow. Moscow as u said is not the dream onsite location 4 any1 but u sure r 1 lucky guy. I really envy u & was grt 2 get a 1st hand report rather than wat v watch on TV. U must truly b there 2 feel the adrenaline & passion. Way 2 go Avishek!!!!

    Anitha.

  6. avatar

    So finally Moscow trip ended with V US diaries, I was bang on time in reading your first three posts, and finished the rest just now. Great to see you back in Pune. Now start writing Pune/Hyd diaries. Dada rocks..

  7. avatar

    i read this again today and was somewhat reminded of a rugby match i watched in Twickenham (the oldest rugby stadium in the world), London. It was Eng v/s South Africa…i did exactly what you did…randomly took the tube to go hang out near the stadium n get a 'feel' for the place…the tube was full of English fans who were hoping that England ends their 7 match losing streak with a win against the Springboks….as i walked towards the stadium, the match started and i ended up getting a plum ticket from one of the 'black market' ticket sellers for like 30 pounds…he was in a hurry to sell the last ticket and go grab a beer..what luck man…to make it all the more memorable, England won !!!!

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